Wednesday, May 22, 2019

Sunflowers salute!

Glorious Sunflower:
May 22 Sunflower
These sweet peas have been blooming since before the first day of spring and they are still going strong.  I just came in from picking these plus giving some to my neighbor and I'm going back out with another empty vase.  I wish you could smell them....divine

morning pick

Thursday, May 16, 2019

French macarons- a delightful classic

Macarons with chocolate ganache and white chocolate ganache filling
We have all seen these lovely little French sandwich cookies.  They are delightful to look at and eat.  Last week I was on a mission to make these little treats and make them perfectly.  They are an art form in the kitchen to say the least.  They are time consuming.  The ingredients and methods are precise....no compromising and the best recipe is from Dorie Greenspan's Book

one of the best cookie books
Macarons are fanciful elegant sandwich cookies as light as the almond meringue they are made of.  These beauties were not part of the curricula when I was a student at the Cordon Bleu School of Cooking.... patissiere.  But they are sure popular now.  The tops of the cookies are called "shells" and are smooth.  The rims around their bottoms are called "feet" and are rough.  The filling is where most of the flavor is from and can be anything you want.  My fillings were chocolate ganache and white chocolate ganache.  My third batch was a cream cheese frosting with cherry jam.  Ok let's start:

 For the macarons:

2 cups (200 grams) almond flour
1 2/3 cups (200 grams) confectioners' sugar
2/3 cup (150ml) egg whites
food coloring
1 cup (200 grams) sugar
1/4 cup (60 ml) water

weigh your ingredients
OK  Get your kitchen scale out and switch it to metric.   Get your digital thermometer out too.  This is why you have these awesome kitchen tools.  In cooking school, especially pastry, we weighed every ingredient.  Flours especially carry different amounts of moisture so the proper ratio of ingredients is more precisely measured by weight.  

Equipment:
kitchen scale (with metric option)
digital kitchen thermometer, candy thermometer will do too
stand mixer
2 baking sheets
parchment paper or silpat liners - W-S has one just for macarons
strainer
large pastry bag
plain 1/2 " tip
pastry brush


Method:
Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.  You can make a 1 1/2" circle guide with a cookie cutter and a pencil and then flip the marked side over or just eyeball the 1 1/2" circle.
 Place the stainer over a large bowl and press the almond flour and the confectioners' sugar through it.  This, as Dorie calls it, is an annoying step but don't skip it.    revendique!

almond flour and confectioners' sugar through the sieve
Put half of the egg whites in your stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.
Add food coloring to the OTHER half of the egg whites.  This was 8 drops:  Then stir egg whites into almond flour/confectioners' sugar mixture.  Using a flexible spatula mix and mash the whites into the dry ingredients until you have a homogenous paste:

paste of egg whites, almond flour, confectioners' sugar and food coloring
OK  now for the meringue
Another classic French patisserie essential:

Bring the sugar and  water to a boil in a small saucepan over medium heat.  If there are splatters on the sides of the pan, wash them down with a pastry brush dipped in cold water.  Cook this syrup until it reaches 243-245 degrees F ( It will take about 10 minutes. )   
Meanwhile:
Beat the egg whites until they hold medium-firm glossy peaks.  Reduce the mixer speed to low and keep mixing until the sugar syrup comes to the 245 deg temperature:
sugar syrup
When the sugar is ready, take the pan off the heat.  With the egg white mixer on low speed, pour in the hot syrup, trying to pour it between the whirring whisk and the side of the bowl.  Do not try to incorporate the splatters.  It will ruin your smooth meringue.  
Increase the mixer speed to high and beat until the meringue has cooled to room temperature, about 10 minutes- you'll be able to tell by touching the bottom of the bowl.   Revendique!

Perfect meringue!
Give the almond flour mixture another stir with the spatula, then scrape the meringue over it and fold everything together.  Don't be gentle.  Keep folding and mashing until when you lift the spatula, the batter flows off it in a thick band:

folding in the meringue 

all mixed in
Add more food coloring now if too pastel.  This batch is from 8 drops of red.  The saturation is reduced to a pastel after this step.

Spoon half of the batter into a pastry bag fitted with the 1/2" round tip and pipe out 1 1/2" rounds.  Hold the bag straight up.  No tilting!  Don't worry if you have a point in the middle.  It will dissolve into the batter while it is "resting"


1 1/2" rounds 2" apart on parchment lined baking sheet
Grab the baking sheet with both hands raise to about 8" above work table and drop it onto the table.  Yep!!!  Drop it without cushion 8"    Slam!  You need to do this in order to get the bubbles out of the batter and to smooth the tops.
Set the cookie sheet aside in a cool, dry place to allow the cookies to form a crust.  When you can lightly touch the top of the macaron shell without having batter stick to your finger, you are ready to bake.  This resting takes about 15-30 minutes and looks like this:

rested batter
Preheat oven to 350 degrees
Bake the macarons one sheet at a time in the middle of the oven for 6 minutes.  Rotate the pan and bake for another 6-9 minutes or until the macarons can be carefully peeled away from the paper or lifted from the mat.  The bottoms will still feel just a little soft.  
Slide the parchment or mat off the baking sheet onto a counter and let the macarons cool.
Repeat with the second sheet
Peel the macarons off the paper or mat and match them for sandwiching.

Sandwiching:
You can use a piping bag or a short handled knife or teaspoon to fill the macarons.
Add filling to one shell, top with another and gently swivel the top macaron to spread the filling to the edges.
Cover the macarons with plastic wrap or pack them into a container.
Refrigerate for AT LEAST 24 HOURS.  Revendique!

Personal note: 
I learned the word "revendique" while a student in Paris. It is a word with no translation:  It basically means "no compromise"  This is the way and the only way to do this.  French pastry making is like this.  If you are not willing to follow this method 100 per cent you are taking a huge risk of failure.  The French pastry chefs are revendique and it pays off.  
I worked this recipe and method until I got it right.  It's labor intensive.  It's very specific and it's totally foolproof if you follow the method exactly.  This was 3 1/2 hours from start to filling and then you wait at least 24 hours until you can serve or eat one.

Plan ahead: Macarons characteristic texture takes this 24 hours to develop.  But once they are ready they store nicely in the fridge for 4 days.  If you have any left the will store nicely in the freezer for up to 2 months.  I keep mine in the freezer and take just one out for a personal treat or a couple to give as a gift to a lucky friend.

Perfect macarons with the eyes of a lamb looking right at you

Bon Appetit!
or
just go out and spend $5 for one.   It's well worth paying a chef to make one for you